Tom Dakin

Underwater acoustics and ocean instrumentation design
I don't have a web site for my work.  But I will see if I can post some things to the project share site when I get back home from some maintenance work on OrcaLab's hydrophones in a week.

Next project to design and print is some cable glands for a large thick-walled Pelican case.  Off the shelf cable glands do not have long enough threads to penetrate the case wall and still have threads to put a retaining nut on.  Your thread video was a great inspiration.  I have made a few threads but the tips you gave in the video will make it easier with less post-printing rework.  I need to pass a 23 mm diameter cable splice through the gland and still have the gland weatherproof on a 12.7 mm diameter cable. I've been using off the shelf PG-29 cable glands, but I have to router the Pelican case wall to a thinner wall around the gland to get a nut on.  It's a pain.  A 3D printed gland should be a good test of thread making abilities and flexible seal design.
I use quite a few types and manufacturers for my filaments.  Inside the house or inside a box parts I use PLA.  AMZ3D, Amazon basics, 3Dprintingcanada, and Hatchbox have all performed really well.  Outside parts I print in PETG (AMZ3D, 3DPrintingCanada, Overture), PETG-GF (FormFutura), and IGUS-I150.  PETG is the filament I use the most. The I150 is really nice to print with, stands up to wear really well, but is not inexpensive and only comes in white.  PETG-CF (3DprintingCanada) I use on parts I print for the 3D printer so they are more rigid and can stand up to elevated temperatures.  I like working with it but it needs a 0.6mm hardened nozzel so the details of the parts are not quite as good as with a 0.4mm nozzel, finish is nice though. NinjaTek Cheetah is my go-to for flexible parts, it is flexible enough for most parts and prints really well, I have some Overture TPU that I also want to try but haven't yet. Sainsmart TPE I have had good success with for flexible collars and seals.  Other TPEs are more flexible but I struggle to print with them (NinjaFlex, Ninjatek Chinchilla).  
For reference I have switched to a BIQU H2 extruder/hotend with an all metal heat break. I like this setup a lot better than the original bowden drive and the various direct drives I have tried.
 BillyWho  uses the same set up that I do for Fusion 360.  3DConnexion Space mouse in the left hand and standard scroll wheel mouse in the right hand. I used this approach with SolidWorks as well.  It's very useful to visualize what is going on and very intuitive.  I also use it to move around in PrusaSlicer and it is a great addition to that program as well.